Time: 1 1/2 hours

INGREDIENTS:

1 tablespoon duck fat or unsalted butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
10 ounces sauerkraut, well-drained
1 2-inch-square smoked bacon
2 bay leaves, 12 black peppercorns, 6 juniper berries, all tied in cheesecloth
1/2 cup chicken stock or water
20 ounces cod fillet in 4 equal portions
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
Leaves from 4 stems fresh tarragon
8 sprigs fresh chervil or 16 opal basil leaves
10 sheets phyllo
6 tablespoons melted butter, preferably clarified
1/2 medium-size baking potato, peeled and grated
1 cup dry Austrian Riesling
1/3 cup dry vermouth
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1/2 cup heavy cream.

DIRECTIONS:

1. Melt fat or butter in heavy saucepan. Add onion and cook over medium heat until just golden. Add sauerkraut, bacon, spices in cheesecloth and stock or water. Bring to simmer. Cover and cook over very low heat 45 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, season cod with salt and pepper. Each piece should measure about 2 by 5 inches and about 1 1/2 inches thick. If the pieces are larger and flatter, cut them to size and stack two pieces for each portion. Divide herbs among each portion, placing them on both sides of fish.

3. Cut sheets of phyllo in half across the width. Stack them and cover with a damp cloth. Place one on work surface. Brush with butter. Top with four more sheets, brushing each with butter. Center a portion of cod at edge of buttered sheets. Roll cod in phyllo like a jelly roll, to make a package. Press down on ends to seal. Cut off and discard excess phyllo at ends, taking care that fish is enclosed. Butter outside of package and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Repeat with remaining cod and phyllo. Refrigerate until 15 minutes before serving.

4. Stir sauerkraut and add potato, riesling and vermouth. Simmer uncovered about 10 minutes. Add lemon. Simmer a few minutes longer, then stir in cream. Bring to simmer and set aside until ready to serve.

5. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place baking sheets in oven and bake 15 to 20 minutes, until strudel is lightly browned.

6. Drain sauerkraut well, keeping liquid in pan, and divide among 4 warm soup plates. Cut each strudel in half and place 2 pieces on top of sauerkraut. Bring sauce remaining in pan to a simmer and strain into blender. Process briefly at high speed, then pour around sauerkraut in each dish and serve.